Almost home

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Today is my last full day in Sydney, and Im wasting it inside typing... No I have been out all morning and will be outside again soon and tonight I plan to have a feast. So for my last couple of days I thought it would be nice to stay in that famous hostel of theirs the Sydney Harbour YHA which I have to add is pretty damn nice, I even have an en-suite, posh hostel or what! Tonight I think I want to eat dinner on the roof overlooking the harbour, I'll have friends with me and I will stuff my face! I'll add an update tomorrow just to say a final goodbye to Australia, its been magical and weird and an adventure to tell everyone about, which is probably all I'll be doing when I get back, I'm sure I shall be sick of talking about it.

Thank you Australia, It's been Wild :D

Spear Fishing!

When I got to Sydney I was met by Bobby, who I knew from Tasmania. We got to Bobby’s and then he said, “Right so tomorrow were going to go spear fishing, did you need to do anything in town before that.” hmm spear fishing you say, well now that was an unexpected turn of events, what better way to round off my trip and forget about leaving Charlotte than a weekend of spearing fish in tropical waters. So after he revealed the plans for the weekend he announced we were also going to a comedy show that night, I invited Kate along and off we went to a club in North Melbourne. We had dinner there and played pool whilst we waited for it to begin and then went up to hear some rather different comedy from Eddie Ifft about all the things he really shouldn’t have done. The style of comedy I think was a bit much for a few members of the crowd and his constant insulting of various peoples and total honesty about the way he thinks seemed to hit a few prudish nerves but also generated plenty of laughs. He had an Aussie following him who was one of those people who you just can’t help but laugh at; he actually had one of the guys I was with screaming with laughter at one gag, I thought he might just pop.

So the next day we got ready to leave, I got a sleeping bag from Kate and then hung around with her for a little while before heading back to the house and waiting for Bobby to get back so we could leave. He brought a cute Chinese girl with him who I really couldn’t see being a part of the underwater rugby team that was the group we were meeting up there however I stood corrected. We got there after dark and it started raining, great start! After a cold wet night we awoke to find that ours was not the only tent that had leaked so we felt a bit better about the whole thing. We crammed in some brekky and then off to the beach. The first person to catch a fish was James, who I would also call the Machine; he is literally a walking mountain of muscle. We then gutted his fish and cut it into little strips and ate it with some lime juice, rather lovely it was. After that Bonnie, (Bobby’s cute little Chinese friend) let me use her spear, Jacky lent me his flippers and I had a go at hunting. I went out with the others and after about half an hour I found a fish that looked big enough to spear, which seemed to ignore me, so I speared it, then thought ‘Oh my god, I just speared it, wow.’

That night we had fish for dinner, a lot of fish. Everyone cooked their fish in their own way and so we were all walking around with plates trying each other’s food and having foodgasms over it all, I normally don’t eat fish but this was just too good, even the sashimi earlier was great, it was a feast of fish and I just pigged out on it. The next day the weather was better but we caught less, in fact lots of us caught nothing, but naturally James came out carrying about 6 massive fish, which he had found in a bay none of us had reached and on the way back he suggested we go to his for a feast. I have never enjoyed fish like that before, and coupled with the millet and veggies and yummy salad he made it was a meal like no other. I now know the reason I don’t like fish so much, it turns out that some of the fish we hadn’t eaten on the first day developed that nasty fishy smell that I’m used to all fish smelling like, however the stuff we ate that was caught that day smelled great and tasted even better. So really what I don’t like is rotten fish, and that’s what all you people back in England are eating, I just had the best fish in the world, caught by us and cooked straight away and it was wonderful!

Charlotte

Monday, May 3, 2010

My flight was back to Melbourne and there I went, to discover that I suddenly had an almost empty bank account. Now when I say almost empty I mean I got there at the start of April, and I had $1.33 in my account. Which after printing out 2 statements just to check if that could possibly be correct ended up as just $0.33, unfortunately not enough to buy dinner with. The reason I mention it being the start of April is that happened to be the long Easter weekend where nothing is open, it was Friday, nothing opened till Tuesday, meaning the bank wouldn’t talk to me about why my account was empty. It was by far my worst Easter, I got no chocolate, I had no family to hang out with, I had no money to spend on nonsense or food and everywhere were annoying people saying the apocalypse is coming trust Jesus. I got by through raiding the free food section and using my accommodation vouchers, and eventually on Tuesday I could access some western union money my dad sent over for me.

Now at this point my luck changed direction, I had held my faith that everything would be cool and I got a call from the brother of a friend in Tassie, who gave me directions to his place and said he might have some work if I wanted it. Now there wasn’t much I wanted more than to have some work considering my financial situation, the only thing I wanted more was a girlfriend. So I hung out with Kent and Jo at their house in the suburbs west of Melbourne, Kent got me a job working for a furniture shop in Fitzroy that used recycled wood, I worked with a guy who handled the de-nailing of the wood before it was sent to the factory to be turned into beds and tables and things. The work was pretty tough but it was cash in my hand and just what I needed at the time.

The other great thing that happened occurred at a Pirate Party on a boat, Kent had a friend who was doing the PA and so we went along to help out and get a free ticket that way, so on went the big shirt and eye patch, along with the fake earring and the silly hat and off we went. As soon as the party got going my eye caught that of a pretty girl wearing the same hat as me, so naturally that acted as an opening for conversation and me spending the entire night talking to her. We both agreed that we couldn’t wait to see each other again and so I got her no and 2 days later I rocked up at her place. I got to see her for about 3 weeks, and in 3 weeks I fell totally in love with her. Charlotte has a mad passion for baking, and we spent most of our time together eating different things and watching films, occasionally we agreed on something but that was rare, one night we actually managed to go out and eat the same thing at a Japanese restaurant which was a miracle but despite all the blatant incompatibility I really didn’t care. My last few weeks in Melbourne were ones of complete bliss and a memory that will stick with me for a bloody long time.

On our last day we did the great ocean road, I thought it would be a nice change if we went out for the day instead of sleeping in late and doing nothing all day long. After the day of fun it was back to hers to pack up my stuff and head back to the suburbs to get ready for my flight the next morning. I have said many times I didn’t want to leave places, and I had my reasons, sometimes I thought there was more to do or I just liked being there but I knew I had to move on, this is the only time I had to convince myself it was time to go, and even then I still wasn’t convinced. I came very close to saying screw England, this is my home and I’m not leaving, however somehow I let the momentum take me and the flight got booked, I did my best not to feel utterly lost when I left Charlotte, all the way wondering what was leading me.

Family Life

Ok here’s a summary of what happened next, as I don’t have time to tell it all. We went up Mount Wellington intending to do some walks then watch sunset and sunrise, we went up saw it and got bored, so we called Ryan and asked if he wanted to go to the beach, he invited us to lunch. At lunch we met the rest of the tribe and including Maria Jessie’s mum who invited us to stay with her in a woofing style deal. So Rosanna, Molly and I end up down in Cygnet staying in a house by the beach and becoming part of this massive family that seems to have conquered the town. I stayed there for a month, with the girls doing such jobs as cooking and cleaning and I taking on the more appropriate jobs of cleaning the gutters and pruning trees. All the while I felt more a part of the family and would end up doing all sorts of random stuff with them, we spent St. Patrick’s day in Hobart, Jess came out with us and we met friends of hers and ran around the town in green nonsense and ridiculous hats, fantastically fun. One day we took out the boat, the boat is a 2 person affair, so naturally when 5 of us climbed in and tried to row to the island nearby it failed rather spectacularly, in fact it was only moving when someone jumped out and pulled it along. The rest of the stay was similar such nonsensical things coupled with plenty of fun and I was very sad to leave in the end, but end it must and so it did.

Gig Night

Monday, April 26, 2010

A couple of days later, Ryan was playing at an open mic night and the girls had said they would come along, so naturally I jumped in the van too and off we went. Turned out we had the name of the town that the gig was at, but not the name of the building. Great I thought, a night of driving around lost and confused, luckily not to be as we did actually find the place in the end without too much trouble. We sat down and ate, had a drink and waited for someone else to appear. Our luck held out when Ryan and his partner in crime Jack strolled in complete with guitar cases confirming that we had in fact found the right place. The evening progressed with some very skilled musicians playing and Ryan and Jack getting more and more worried, the went into an unused room to practice and simply ended up messing about. When it was their turn they weren’t looking forward to it, and I soon figured out why when I discovered they weren’t lying about not having practiced for weeks, however as unpolished as they were they ended up playing more songs just because we liked them so much, after the gig we all congratulated the pair or the Flatstacks as their band is named and our compliments were genuine. That night we got to see Annie again and meet Des and Tanya Ryan’s parents, the family gets bigger!

Snorers!

Saturday, April 24, 2010

I spent last night drowning out the snoring from across the room with my iPod.


For all those people who snore loudly, don't bloody stay in a shared room, it's annoying and I need my sleep!

Meeting Cygnet's Ruling Family

Several days of sitting on my arse, waiting for something to happen, wondering what I was going to spend the next 2 months doing and then a pair of English backpackers arrived, Molly and Rosanna. Still wondering what I was going to do the girls planned to go down for a little day trip with Bobby, a Chinese born Aussie I had been talking to at the hostel, down in the region of Cygnet, a small, sparsely populated place in the south west of Tasmania. Bobby had a friend called Annie from Sydney, who was visiting her friends down in cygnet, and when Bobby called to ask if she was busy we got invited to lunch. Alan and Kay welcomed us into their home and fed us a delicious lunch that even I being one of the fussiest people on earth enjoyed thoroughly. We met their granddaughter Jessica, the 2 resident dogs and then Jessica’s sisters Mary and Adele, I did some reiki on Annie’s shoulder which had been destroyed in a skiing accident, (or perhaps several skiing accidents one after the other) and then we all went to the beach. On the way to the beach we stopped off where Annie was actually staying and picked up swimmers and Ryan (Jessica’s Cousin) and had a tour of the house and garden before heading off to the beach and getting lost on the way!

The water in Tasmania is cold, and I say that having swum in England, Wales and even Scotland. Even Annie went in as well although she didn’t swim, the rest of us swum out to a boat which Bobby proceeded to climb and jump off and I proceeded to be defeated by but that was only because I was so damn cold at that point my fingers were going numb and weren’t much use for gripping. The only person to really squeal and take forever getting into the water was Ryan, sissy! After the swim we went hunting for a certain beach, to hunt for mussels, which resulted in us getting lost and confused again which I discovered was due to cousins trying to direct each other, eventually we found the right beach though. So off we went clambering over rocks and cutting our feet on oysters all to get a bag full of mussels and I don’t even like seafood! I must admit collecting the mussels was fun though, someone even ate raw oyster, that made me feel a little queasy. The last stop was the chippy to complete the meal at which Annie treated us all to fish and chips so we returned to Alan and Kay’s for an evening feast before finally departing and heading back to Hobart.

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Cradle Mountain

Friday, April 23, 2010

The last thing I really wanted to do in Tassie was to see Cradle Mountain, only I had no money, whilst I was waiting out this conundrum I was back in Hobart with Mick and a bunch of others including a cute French girl Emmanuelle who took Mandy’s place as my travel buddy. Then one day I was on Skype and chatting to an old friend of mine back in England who after hearing of my deteriorating money situation offered to help, his offer of 150 squid was exactly what I needed to keep me going although I felt quite bad not being sure when I would be able to pay him back, he insisted saying I should accept it as sponsorship, so I did. The Money from Ant meant I could go up to Launceston and see Cradle Mountain and still be ok when I came back down and was hunting for a job again.

We went for a walk when we got to Launceston and this revealed the beautiful Cataract Gorge where I climbed rocks, stuck my feet in the water and was instructed not to climb over the edge of the cliff and kill myself by Manu. The walk back was a killer, so much so that when we reached a service station I bought a spirulina smoothie! Later at the hostel we curled up and watched Enduring Love, which we borrowed from the hostel. The next day was Cradle Mountain day where we had apparently the clearest day possible, our guide informed us that the weather there was so changeable they often have anything from snow to rain or mist and its very rare to be able to spot the peak of Cradle Mountain, so for us to be able to see it clearly and have a clear sky with only a hint of cloud made us pretty lucky. What didn’t make us lucky was that the route had been shut whilst they did repairs meaning we got to walk around the lake and almost got to the route leading up the mountainside. On the way back we made up for the lack of adventure by stopping at a chocolate factory!

A bit of tassie bush

Saturday, April 17, 2010

I left the farm to explore the wider world of Van Diemen’s Land starting in Hobart, yes I had already explored it but never mind. Now I thought being in Tasmania would automatically render me friendless, seeing as no other backpackers seemed to be going there, and for the first few days in Hobart this was pretty much so. However little Mandy from the scandal back in Adelaide was about to visit, so after being in Hobart alone for a couple of days I had a friend.

Mandy, a Dutch girl named Analise, a Belgian guy called Michael and I set off on a 2-day trip of Mount Field and the Southwest national parks, we plugged in the iPod and took it in turns to complain about each other’s music choice and soon we were into the hills leaving the city behind. Our first aim to find the hostel proved a little confusing but when we did find it we felt a little silly as it was ‘bleedin obvious’ as the building with the blue roof that we were told to look out for, in hindsight we over thought it a bit. Anyway we got in and found it to be a delightful little house, which actually was the owner’s house, his kitchen etc. and he slept in the shed up the top but used the house in the daytime. After getting ourselves sorted and dumping stuff and eating lunch we finally went out and took a hike up at Mount Field.

The next day was to be our Southwest national park day; although Mount Field has infinitely more to explore the Southwest was where we planned to do a big hike. Today was not one of my best days, the day before at mount field was beautiful, we climbed waterfalls and took funny photos and generally messed about, then at night we had a Barbie at the hostel and the owner sat with us as well, we cooked up a delicious feast and chatted about karma and the point of being vegetarian, stayed up late listening to music and feeling very peaceful. So today I wasn’t feeling too energetic, my legs had half calcified and were refusing to move properly and I was pissed off at Mandy. It turned out I must have got the wrong end of the stick; I thought she was leaving her boyfriend in Germany, but 2 months later and she still hadn’t informed him of this. So halfway up the hill at the end of the day I voiced my complaints and then we didn’t talk much, we almost made it to the summit and then we staggered down, I got some lovely photos from the day and the morning was good but the end feeling wasn’t too good, and that night when we returned to Hobart Mandy and I went separate ways.

Van Diemen's Land

Thursday, April 15, 2010

My grandparents have a friend who is related to someone who lives in Australia, and they gave me her no, she in turn gave me the no of her daughter in Tasmania and when I called up Kelly not quite sure what to expect she offered me a bed straight away. So off I went to Tassie early one morning to be picked up by Kelly and taken off to the farm to meet Leigh and the Kids, told to help myself to anything and given a room with a huge bed, Wahay the luck still stands! So for the next 2 weeks I walked around a field carrying big irrigation pipes, chased sheep, went fishing for flathead and caught a mountain of them, got fed more food than even I could cram into my black hole of a belly and got several guided tours of the surroundings courtesy of Kelly and Leigh.

I got to see a bit of Hobart, which is a small town even though it is the capital in a space almost as big as England. Hobart is quiet and pretty, the harbour is lovely with plenty of cool looking fishing vessels as well as the large sailing ships now used for making money from tourists and often there is even a massive cruise ship sitting there looking as if it could easily accommodate everyone in Hobart. The state library is about the size of most YHA hostels and there is a massive chess set in Franklin Square, the museum is filled with random stuffed animals and odd paintings and then at the back there is a whole section on Antarctica that told me all about the expeditions that I never knew set off from Tasmania, but of course that’s obvious that they would. My first impression of Hobart was of an odd little fun city and I loved it, even some of the old Georgian buildings still remain, all in all it is a lovely little place.

Richmond also still has most of its Georgian buildings and is extremely proud of its history, being very old (only by Australian standards obviously) it boasts the oldest Gaol in Australia (yes they spelled Jail like that back then) the oldest Bridge in Australia and the oldest church in Australia. It’s amusing that there are three pubs in Sydney that all claim to be the oldest, so who knows how accurate Richmond’s claims are, I certainly don’t plan to argue with them. What’s even funnier is how Australia always likes to tell everyone how old their buildings are even though they are all recent history and none of them actually count as old, Europe has towns and buildings 100 times the age of the oldest Aussie settlements. That aside Richmond is very pretty and very English for that matter, it looks just like most English country villages.

Melbourne, the Rival

Sunday, April 4, 2010

My aunt and uncle had a couple of friends who played the music for their wedding, and then moved to Australia, Nicky and Stuart were still living there when I arrived and had offered me a bed for when I got to Melbourne. When I turned up it turned out to be a double bed in a lovely house and food as well, it seemed my luck was still working. So with so much time on my hands I went ahead and discovered only a very small amount of Melbourne, as always seems to be the way; if you have a time schedule to keep to you get things done and when you have all the time in the world you somehow never get round to doing anything. Not to say that I wasted my time in Melbourne though, I enjoyed watching Andy Murray power his way through to the finals of the Australian Open, I enjoyed watching Federa smite him like a bug, I had Australia day in Melbourne and I ended up at the party next door and didn’t return till the next morning. Jesse (that I met in Sydney) was here also so I hung out with him in my spare time (not that I had anything but spare time) and we visited the zoo together seeing all kinds of odd things such as signs that said Hati-Hati, a room with a billion butterflies and giraffes, naturally Melbourne zoo had some Australian wildlife but most of it seemed to have been shipped in from the rest of the world such as the bears, lions and hyena which are clearly not native animals.

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Something strange happened, I met Nora again, I was hanging out with Jesse at the YHA Metro and as I was leaving I saw Nora by the door, I arranged to meet her the next day and off I went back home to sleep. So the next day I wandered into town and we met up to go for lunch at a local Indian, meanwhile talking about this and that but for some reason the conversation just didn’t seem to work, everything we talked about ended up as an argument. I had noticed the night before that Nora seemed a little wary of me as if she didn’t like me as soon as she set eyes on me, but I figured I was just imagining things and ignored it. Now for some reason we just couldn’t get on, we got onto the subject of politics and then it resulted in an argument, even though I’m sure we had pretty similar views, like two people yelling at each other and when you listen they’re both saying exactly the same thing but they aren’t listening to each other so they don’t notice. Eventually she informed me I had changed and was clearly not the person she thought I was, I had become much harsher and seemed as if I was really tired and grumpy and if this had happened when we first met she would have just walked away and not bothered with me. To be honest I still haven’t a clue what happened and what I said wrong, how I met up with a friend and suddenly we became enemies, it was confusing and a little hurtful and I’m sure totally unnecessary, perhaps I just shouldn’t talk politics with anyone.

Canberra, a capital with a difference

Thursday, April 1, 2010

After all this time travelling around Australia I still hadn’t seen the capital. Now in somewhere such as Italy that would be a heinous crime, however in Oz the situation is slightly different; the capital city is boring. This is not just me being rude, everyone on the planet who has travelled Australia or lives there will agree with me. Canberra was built because Sydney and Melbourne fought for ages like spoilt children over who got to be the capital city, and eventually some genius had enough and built a city between them to settle the dispute. The only problem with this new city Canberra, is that it had been built purely for the purpose of ruling, which meant that it was boring and totally un-distracting to office workers, except if you count the confusing circles everywhere or the porn industry; the ACT is a territory and not a state meaning that while pornography is illegal to sell in all Australian states, their capital isn’t in a state and so the administrative capital is also the porn capital, another gold star for Australia!

I only stayed for 1 day in Canberra, which was enough, however that does not mean I was bored. I have a habit of wandering into the right place at the right time, this habit led me to walk to the National Portrait Gallery and open the door for a lady who immediately afterwards exclaimed at my chivalry and offered me a ticket to the French masters that was currently showing there (her daughter couldn’t make it) this then lead to me having someone to talk to about the paintings which is always nice, and then to being able to see a game of Footsall, which is indoor football with an Australian name at the local stadium just outside the city. Maree also drove me to the new parliament house to show me the line up with the memorial, Canberra was a totally planned city so the layout allows one to stand on the steps of Parliament house and look over Old Parliament house to see the War Memorial which is a cool idea, but overshadowed by a mountain right behind it. In the evening I met some amusing friends, which explain some of the odder pictures from Canberra.

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Festivities

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Kate invited me to go down to Wollongong with her and so I was due to go the evening of the Sydney festival. During the day I met up with the lovely Franzi, who came out around the festival with me, unfortunately it was only for about 2 hours so we didn’t see a lot of the fest. What we did see was a man in a dinosaur suit running about scaring little kids and a man dressed as an ATM, various bands playing different easy going music and an acrobatic show where a couple of fools were fooling about on stage pretending to hit each other. I bought some sandals and a hat (finally) from Paddy’s Market, enjoyed the random festivities and then ended up at a Barbie on the roof, courtesy of Polotoni who worked at the YHA, (please forgive me Poli if I have spelled it wrong) I chatted to him in the morning and my good mood and smile got me into a Barbie and free luggage storage whilst I was checking out. I bought my new GBF along to it and we ate loads and then I found a welsh girl and spent about an hour trying to convince her to come with me to the festival which was going on without us, in the end it worked but Jesse (GBF) was scolding me like a disappointed school teacher for taking so long and not just walking away, I would have but she was cute and I wanted her to come with us, so I made sure she did.

So off we ran with Anharrad (Welsh girl) in tow and spent ages trying to find Kate who was enjoying some awesome jazz music, which I can attest to be awesome as we did find her in time to catch the end of it and had a good jive, they even played “I wanna be like you.” (Some of us might remember that song from the jungle book.) Kate showed us all up and Jesse swept me off my feet, odd to not be the lead in a Jive but then an ex girlfriend back in England was also my dance teacher so I’m not totally unused to it. We twirled and spun, got very dizzy drunk gallons of water (which we promptly sweated out again), grabbed strangers and danced with them and finally the band sung their last song and we realized we were late for our train. So off we ran, knowing full well that we wouldn’t catch our train, I also had to pick up the bags I had left in storage at the YHA, but we ran anyway, and after a little while Kate said “Give me your bag and run, go get your stuff” so I sprinted, for the first time in a long time I ran flat out, through the obstacle course of human traffic littering the street, I ran so fast that I began to ignite, then I got to the hostel and had to describe in intimate detail the contents of the bags I wanted to pick up having lost the tags for the bags, naturally I missed the train.

So Kate and I caught the next train, we jumped on and sat there chatting to each other and the guards about all sorts of nonsense and she told me all about the place we were to go to, but not before a ridiculously painful walk carrying my 24 kg bag and a 10 kg carrier bag which felt heavier due to its awkward shape and crappy handles. When we did get to the house I was pretty pleased though, it was a cosy little place, very clean and Kate had set out a surprise for me that she had been hinting at on the train, we have a running joke about tea that started in Darwin and now results in even our nicknames for each other being tea related, the surprise was several ornate tea cups and pots laid out all over the house, from elegant bone china to oversized brightly, multi-coloured mugs. I was so tired it took me about half an hour to even notice it, however once I did I was suitably impressed.

So I spent a few days there, making combined meals of my spice filled cooking with Kate’s bizarre but delicious salad to make veritable feasts, arguing over everything from what to put in the food to the meaning of life to whether red is a good colour, swimming at the local beach and experimenting with metaphysics. We even ended up fighting when I bought a minuscule piece of ginger to use for the food, I maintain that I was right; although I’m sure Kate would differ. I would like to add that whilst not arguing we drank tea and got on like a house on fire, Kate and I do actually get on quite well.

Presents!!!

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Ok so for the last little while I have been travelling and doing tons of random stuff, I am also now in Tasmania which for those of you that don’t know means I have a lot more time in the bush and the bush doesn’t have wi-fi. So I shall do my best to finish this story of mine and try to get up the rest of my photos etc. maybe even another bit of film footage, but don’t expect anything too regularly.

My return to Sydney was quite nice; it rounded off the trip and sort of marked it as the end of my frantic travelling. Since then I have travelled very little and instead enjoyed my time getting to know people in one area, sleeping a lot and generally just mucking about, unfortunately this does also mean less pictures. Whilst I was back in Sydney I got to see Sydney festival, hang out with Nic before she left for NZ and see Kate.

Now this would be a while after Christmas, I couldn’t get to Sydney any earlier, but there were presents waiting for me in Sydney. My mum had informed me that she had sent over a present to a friend who was visiting her son near Manly, and that I was to retrieve it from her at Christmas, something I was pretty excited about as it doesn’t really matter how old you are its always great to get a present! I met Andrea coming off the ferry, I had no idea what she looked like having met her once before in England a fair while ago and not being the best at remembering names I was looking about hoping that I might know one of the many faces around me. Eventually she found me, my facial recognition obviously isn’t quite up to scratch at the moment.

After saying hello she plonked a large bag in my arms and said merry Christmas, there was I thinking my mother had sent over perhaps a pair of socks or something else small and easily transported. It turns out that she hadn’t in fact used the postal service to sent over a small parcel but given a big bag of presents to Andrea back in England, which she then took over in her luggage and had been holding for me for about 2 months. The evening with them went like this: sit in a café and open presents (list to follow), walk over a big hill, meet Lee and have a swim, go get takeaway for dinner (cringing at this point, I’m fussy), go back to Lee’s and meet the dog, chat and eat dinner (delicious), chat to Andrea on the way home. Unfortunately I didn’t get to meet Lee’s wife Darleen or the new baby, which is a shame, but I might get to meet them on my next visit to Sydney before I catch my flight home.

New Years

Monday, March 1, 2010

New Years was a slightly sad affair as Nic would be leaving on New Years Day, upon a train that had no more seats available (naturally this was a blatant lie as Nic later informed me her carriage was nowhere near full) according to Great Southern Rail, however we made it a nice ending. Earlier in the day we went out to the market and selected some nice food: olive bread, vintage cheese, more olives, some dips and snacks and then a bottle of wine finished our picnic. We took the food out and went to the river (No alcohol zone so the wine was hidden), where most of the people had congregated but handily left a nice little spot for us with plenty of space to spread out and eat whilst we waited for the awful band to stop playing, luckily they promptly did just that and we got to sit enjoy whilst watching fireworks go off and everyone cheer for the new year. The food was fantastic, I was with my new best friend with a picnic and a bottle of wine on New Years Eve watching the moon instead of the fireworks and stuffing my face, my best new years yet and I didn’t even get a kiss.

Sadly though Nic was of course just about to leave, she promised to come and see me on my 21st when I got back home, if I managed to get on a train soon I might even get to see her in Sydney for a couple of days but either way, she was leaving. She hopped on the train and off she went, half way they discovered the tracks had been flooded, so she came back to Adelaide, then set off again, this time on a replacement bus which, just like the replacement bus service back home, took twice as long as the train would have done. I didn’t envy her trip one little bit.

Christmas, yes I know that was ages ago

Monday, February 22, 2010

So I spent my Christmas in Adelaide with Nic. The lovely Angelica came back from Kangaroo Island for one day before heading off for good and on that day we went out into the Barossa Valley to sample some wine. Geli did the driving which worked out well seeing as alcohol has no effect on her, and we dragged Nic along too, luckily she didn’t mind being a third wheel. We toured around visiting first a little town and trying some cheese then off to try the wine including Wolf Blass, Seppeltsfield and several others! It was a beautiful day and good to see my gorgeous German again before she disappeared, her plans would take her to Sydney for Christmas and New Years then to New Zealand before home.

For Christmas the Adelaide Central YHA or Jackie to be precise arranged a feast! Nic and I met up and went to hers for lunch, it was free after all and they didn’t know I wasn’t from their hostel. We had meat, cheese and bread followed by fruit and ice cream and goon which is appalling Australian wine in a box. It was a good lunch and we hadn’t much else planned so we gradually drifted back to mine, presuming we had missed the Christmas lunch happening there. We were wrong, and what a nice thing to be wrong about, Jackie ushered us in and told us to grab plates and tuck in, whilst Shon one of the fanatical staff members interrogated us about our tickets, which we didn’t have seeing as Jackie let us in for free. So to all people who say ‘there’s no such thing as a free lunch!’ I just had two of them.

We helped ourselves to a lot; we had potatoes, chicken, salads, pasta, bread, good wine and then dessert; cakes and custard and chocolate! Half way through Jackie asked me if I wanted to help, I said “sure” and ended upstairs pouring out the custard and delivering the cakes downstairs, each time having to shoe away greedy guests who couldn’t wait. Then finally we got it all there, arranged it nicely, took a picture and demolished it!

I had gotten into the spirit of the joining in thing so when Jackie said “I want some volunteers, a group 1 and group 2.” I immediately put up my hand to discover it was a trick to find people to clear away glasses and wash up, although after washing up seeing as I had shouted “I’ll be both!” I got to learn from Jackie how to make Irish Coffees. Which meant getting given a bottle of whiskey and lots of whipped cream to play with, so it was fun, and that’s how I had my first coffee, with extra whiskey. Then with a little help from the whiskey the singing began, Jackie insisted that we perform various songs, and so we did. Rudolph was tributed, a Canadian pulled out a song about tying down a kangaroo, an Aussie had a poem no one got and then I got to sing “Im gonna be (500 miles)” solo because no one else could do the accent. Like all days the sun goes down and eventually people get tired and go to bed, the magic of Christmas lingered just long enough to send me to sleep feeling happy and contented and nowhere near as homesick as I had earlier.

The rest of the time went by in a blur of random stuff, mostly more sleeping, plenty of wandering about, and I also went out shopping to spend my Christmas money from home, on shoes, no I haven’t had a large dose of estrogen, I had just reached the point where my shoes were carving holes in my feet with their deformed and deteriorating selves. Also a friend of Nic or rather to be precise Nic’s boyfriend by the name of Conrad was coming to Australia, he arrived white as chalk and soon became pink as Barbie in the sun. He joined us for our random little expeditions including going to the botanic gardens and hunting round the market, which in Adelaide is awesome and well worth doing all food shopping in if you happen to go.

The best day out was to the polish festival, didn’t make much sense to me at the time, I had no idea any poles had made it as far as Australia, however it turns out they had, we even met one (or a half one rather, some of his ancestors were polish), at the hay throwing competition; this involves sticking a pitchfork into a bale of hay and lobbing it as far as you can, amazingly good fun. I took the lead on my first throw but was then outdone by our polish friend who was in turn outdone by Conrad, who was overtaken again by the Polish Guy and then Conrad finished it off by hurling it almost to the fence on the other side, I was only slightly put out by being beaten seeing as Conrad is at least twice my size and therefore it would be just silly if I was stronger, and the prize was beer, 1 for each of us.

So far I had not stayed anywhere longer than a few days so this for me was a very long break, and a very needed one. I discovered something about staying in one place, and that is I met more people, and got to spend more time with them proving that my previous speed of light travelling method was not only draining but also crazy as I missed out on loads. The high from Christmas had me in a good mood, so when a new staff member arrived I spoke to her straight away, Deniz who was so funny I was usually cackling like a madman around her, is “Turkish, German!” as she proudly announces anytime someone forgets the Turkish part. She would do funny things like wear wetsuit boots to her night job when they requested black footwear because she didn’t want to buy new shoes. Then there was Mandy and Iris; two friends who I promptly broke up, one of them liked me, then the other one did, then I failed to avoid the obvious trap. And all through I had Nic, keeping me company in the scorching Christmas heat, take that englanders! My Christmas was sunny and warm!!!

The End of the Nullarbor

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Our last day was a fairly quiet one, stopping only for a trip down the longest still standing jetty and at a museum. The museum included all sorts of things from evolution of the country from its Gondwana origins to the history of the town as a stop for all trains heading in all directions, it was actually a lot more interesting than I was prepared for being rather sleepy that day, and I would have liked more time to explore, but when I realised I couldn’t see anyone I knew I figured it was time I left and rejoined the group that was probably waiting just for me. The jetty isn’t actually the record holder for longest jetty in the southern hemisphere, that belongs to Busselton, however that jetty has fallen down so is now shorter than the jetty we visited this day until it gets rebuilt.

The other members to our group were great and even included one extremely odd old Frenchman, who wore earplugs at all times. I think this might have been to block out all the random noises he made, which were many and totally bizarre; he would grunt and mutter, be silent for a moment and then start chatting to himself in French, only he had earplugs in so he clearly couldn’t actually hear any of what he was saying. He would appear out of the blue and talk to us in French and then walk off leaving us startled for a moment and then just cracking up, we tried not to laugh but really the comedy of it all was too much and we simply didn’t know how to react not having a clue what he was on about. He was a nice guy, but a little confusing.

Finally the time came for us all to depart, we arranged to meet up later and get some drinks and then Lachie dropped us off one by one at our abodes. It was odd to have spent so much time with them and then be going off our separate ways. I settled in at Adelaide Central YHA and relaxed so much I almost fell asleep then and there. Hoisting myself up I got showered and changed then headed out to enjoy our last night as a group. The journey was finally over, an end to camping and travelling so far, I had seen a hell of a lot in a hell of a lot of nothing and now the time came to do a hell of a lot of nothing in the city.

Sharks for some

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

The next day was the shark day for those that had paid extra, and the surf day for those that hadn’t. Well I’m a broke backpacker so naturally I opted to surf, which I did. The instructor gave me the shorter fibreglass board instead of the huge heavy foam ones and I attempted to make good use of it by taking on bigger waves, sadly they were too big and I just ended up falling face first into the waves as I tried to stand up, although when I switched back to the big board I found it so easy it was almost laughable, at least it was proof I had improved even if I couldn’t surf big waves yet.

After surfing we visited some more dramatic cliffs, then a sinkhole, that looked like it had dried out about 13,000 years ago and was full of sand. Then we went to the animal farm, yay! It was basically a small zoo; you got a load of seeds and grain in a bag, then went around the farm seeing the various animals and feeding them. They had Kangaroos, dingo’s (we didn’t feed them), birds that landed on you and ate from the hand, ostriches, donkeys, turtles, parrots that aimed for the fingers rather than the seeds, camels, cows and more.

We went to a café to await the return of the girls from their day with the sharks, and then it was off to the pub, where we would get beds again! We got some drinks, I sat down with my laptop and used the cafés Internet, and we waited. And we waited. Some of group wandered off to do some shopping etc. and we waited some more. An hour after they usually turn up Lachie called to find out what was happening, which was that they still wouldn’t be back for another hour, “Sorry guys, we wont be staying in the pub after all, I’ll go get us some food and then well head back to the campsite.” He then made a call back to base to mention the catastrophe and see if anything could be done, “Its ok guys were going to the pub.” And off he walked back to the bus. A lift had been arranged for the girls later, whilst we would drive to the pub straight away and get some pizza.

We were the only guests and as such we had our choice of rooms, the pub owner gave us a pile of keys and off we went to pick the best ones first. I managed to grab me a big bed and dumped everything then jumped into a much needed shower before heading down for dinner and then meeting the local drunks. One Lebanese guy who was absolutely hilarious kept buying me and Nic drinks and then showing us how to beat the arcade machines that dispense DVD’s and Nintendo’s, which was by this point almost empty having already been cleaned out by him during the day. Poor Nic was light headed on the first glass of wine (probably because she is so tiny), but our Lebanese friend wouldn’t hear no, everyone else was outside having a great time and at midnight we all shouted happy birthday out to Lachie who was then bought more drinks by our Lebanese friend.

Eventually we moved the party upstairs to our lounge area, got some music and people gradually drifted off to bed as we carried on drunken conversation, I was tipsy but the only one not drunk seemed to be Geli, her German blood I reckon. So far I had been in the tent with Nic every night so I jokingly apologised that I wouldn’t be able to keep her warm that night as I had been taken but she was welcome to join us if she wished, being totally hammered she almost accepted but luckily for her boyfriend back home, she ended up in her bed and not with Geli and me.

Bread, Fish and Bear

So our wonderful but brief rest ended as we set off again for a little more fun. We stopped at colton a town of 2 buildings, to get breakfast at the bakery. No one was there, this rather confused us as there was a very limited selection of hiding places, we searched what little there was to search but we weren’t very productive and eventually gave up with no bread. So we got brekky elsewhere and moved on to the next hotspot, a coastal tour of some bizarre sculptures. Each one individual, and I mean that, there was a melon shaped man on a bike, a row of square heads and a pair of thongs to name a few.

In the afternoon we went swimming with tuna. You could feed them as well, giving the big fish little fish but you had to be wary of the seagulls who like to snatch anything and everything, especially fish away from people, oh and they also crapped on me, luckily I was wearing Angelicas hat at the time. Then they crapped on my arm and my leg. ‘Bugger this!’ I thought and promptly stripped off and dived in aiming for the nearest fish to take it out on. Unfortunately my attempts to catch the tuna were about as successful as my attempts to avoid bird crap. The big fish swim around like children given a double espresso, half sugar with some caffeine pills thrown in, only without the inevitable come-down.

That evening we pulled into another campsite, but this time with a monumental difference, this campsite had bears! And obviously by bears I do mean Koalas, big bears are not native to Australia, in fact the only large predator on land in Oz is the croc, and most of the time they aren’t on land. So I decided to head out and try to hunt down one of the drop bears not so dangerous cousins and attempt to make friends, Geli (Angelica) came with me.

The first grunting beast; (for those that don’t know Koala bears grunt, we discovered this while setting up our tents and hearing a noise like a large angry boar in the bushes which scared the crap out of everyone) was just plain grumpy. Some were asleep, some were defensive, some were just confused and then we found one that was only half asleep, confused enough to not have a clue what was happening but too tired to care, and this fella we named Bob. I of course had no idea whether Bob was male or female but this was no hindrance, if Bob was female than it should simply be short for Kate, a joke that only people who know Blackadder will get, so sorry to those who are just confused now, go watch Blackadder. Anyway I wanted to hug a Koala, or at least touch one, and this I got to do even though I was told I shouldn’t touch them, I couldn’t help it though they’re just so cute and cuddly!

Sand and Sealions

Monday, February 8, 2010

Up early again for what promised to be the best day yet. A start of sand boarding and then a swim with Sea lions! Oh yes it was awesome! We actually started by visiting some cliffs with a cave and generally a very scenic look to it, which we spent ages at, I was in no hurry being a little tired from staying up with Angelica so I didn’t object but eventually we were dragged away to hurl ourselves down sand dunes.

Ok so for those that didn’t guess, sand boarding is hurling yourself off a sand dune with a board underneath you. It was great fun; I managed to take a little chunk out of my finger somehow, which prompted amusement and patronising comments from Angelica when I complained. Most of us had a go and much screaming ensued so at least I wasn’t being the most girly. I had as many goes as I could and at the end raced with an English chappie who was Woofing at Coodlie Park. He won.

Shaking sand out of every possible hiding place we then headed off to do the most amazing thing I have done yet. The guy who runs the Sea lion and dolphin swim has been friends with those critters for 18 years, a huge amount of time (to me) in which he has probably had the perfect life, nothing quite compares to the feeling of wonder, being in the water with those Sea lions and 18 years of it, what a thing to do.

It was freezing on the boat; I think the general feeling about getting in the water was one of dread, however when we jumped in we were shocked by how warm it was. In fact much warmer than being on the boat and we were swimming for an hour in the water, only getting out when we were thoroughly wrinkly. Half way through the guy who owns the company jumped in, and then we got to see the magic happen. Ok so I said it was warm, by that I meant warm in comparison to an ice cube, or the wind up on that boat, so I found it very surprising to see him swimming about in just his bathers. He just floated down there underwater for ages, with the Sea lions right next to him. Not only did he seem to be able to hold his breath for about half an hour, he also was so comfortable with the Sea lions and they with him, it was like they were his kids. Nic damn her, discovered the secret to getting a Sea lion to kiss her, and me with my wonder photography managed to get a very crappy photo of what was an epic sight! The way the Sea lions swam around us, showing off by swimming circles around us land beings and the way they were so cute and funny looking made the whole experience totally magical. Nic and I just sat there on the boat after, shivering and grinning at each other like we’d just won the lottery and learned how to fly at the same time!

Unfortunately we didn’t find any dolphins, we looked, and were poured hot chocolate and tea whilst we searched as so many of us looked as though we might be hypothermic, we had after all been in the water for and hour when normally groups only spend about 15 minutes in. It got so bad I tried to sunbath by hanging off the side of the boat, then going to the front and eventually just using Angelica for warmth and I think at one point we both sandwiched Nic as she was turning blue. The last thing on the agenda was to visit some rocks that were supposedly millions of years old, though I always do wonder how exactly people know this. They were good climbing anyway, and I ended up taking my top of in the sun, seeing as it was wet it was actually keeping me cold.

I said last thing on the agenda however Hassie had one more in store for us; a wildlife tour of his land, I went on the later one with my 2 favourite girls and Nic was so cold I had to keep an arm round her the whole way. We saw a lot of Kangaroos, one of them hopped a fence whilst Hassie chased it in the car, and there were also wombats. Hassie led the way whilst we wandered over some of the empty wombat holes and we were told to tread carefully else we might end up in a wombats house, then later we drove up to one with 2 wombats that were out and about, they were smaller than I had imagined. Small and solid, dark brown and almost like newborn puppies, they have a hilarious defence mechanism, which utilizes their ‘butts of steel’, and they are nocturnal like so much of Australia’s wildlife.

That night we had beds! Man the excitement was overwhelming, not only showers and toilets of a civilized standard but beds too! They were dorm beds however so I presumed sharing with Angelica would have been out of the question. Although the French guy in my room did use earplugs...

Reaching base camp

Saturday, February 6, 2010

After we left the farmhouse/petrol station/ghost house we visited the coast again, for more windy times on more cliffs, this time the wind was even stronger if possible, and I took photos for proof. Up till now even though we had been doing the Nullarbor tour we hadn’t yet reached it, so this was the big moment, when we would be officially on the Nullarbor Plain!

Nullarbor means no trees in aboriginal, and the Nullarbor is just that, a massive expanse not unlike a desert but instead of having nothing at all, it simply didn’t have any trees. The Nullarbor does have plenty of bushes, small bushes that grow to about a foot high cover it, so really it is like a massive field! A really, really massive field! The ground of the Nullarbor as I previously found out is like a sieve, any water that hits it immediately sinks through, so when it rains, which it does 3 times a year, and yes we just happened to be there to see a 3rd of its rainfall, the water sinks straight through the ground and only the little cactus like shrubs are able to absorb enough to survive.

The dog fence, cunningly named is another interesting part of this area, built to keep dingo’s out of the more inhabited areas it is a little fence about 5000 km long. This would make it the longest fence in the world, starting from the coast just a few km’s away from the road we were on, it stretches all the way to Queensland. Which if you ask me is completely bonkers, however it does make for an amusing world record and it does indeed keep the dogs out. The fence naturally being exceedingly long is also exceedingly difficult to look after; therefore it is up to the landowners whose land happens to be inflicted with this fence to keep it in good nick.

After this brief geography lesson we encountered a town, civilization!!! It was in the form of a nice little seaside plaice called something I forget and it had a shark in one of the buildings. Yes that’s right, a shark, Lachie told us to head over to the petrol station where there would be a shark. So off to the petrol station we went, inside and what do we see, a bunch of snacks and rude magazines with a little tourist merchandise. Ok then so maybe we have the wrong building, we look around for chocolate and finding none of interest we decided to go in search for chocolate elsewhere. I figure we might as well give the shop a good scour, maybe its some painting of a shark somewhere, who knows. So we walk around and take a corridor leading past the toilets to find a 5 metre white pointer staring at us as we round the corner. Suspended from the ceiling, mouth gaping, looking as though it intended to eat you and had sat there waiting for you to swim past.

We admired the shark for a while and found out that it was the towns choice of big model because someone from the town had caught one, a shark that was actually even bigger than the one in front of us, they had to scale it down because it was too big to fit in the room. Everywhere in Australia has something big, I don’t know why perhaps it is to make for something. There’s a big lobster, a big banana, a big prawn, a big rocking horse, a big rock and now we had found a big shark!

The founders of the company, Hassie and Jo lived at Coodlie Park YHA, a place that is very off the beaten track and here we stopped for 2 nights. When we got there we were all very excited by the prospect of a shower, I was so excited in fact that I had a shave and looked almost human afterwards. And then we were presented with a scrumptious feast of lamb, sausages, potatoes and all things Australian and we had the company of the group heading the other way too so we got to hear about all the things in store for us. We also had 3 people from the other group that were to join us and head back to Adelaide so as the girls pointed out, I would no longer be the only guy, again they forgot to include Lachie in the equation, something which had been annoying him every time they said it.

Up till now, I hadn’t been taking advantage of my situation, surrounded by women, or so Angelica told me, in fact it almost sounded like I was being told off! “Oh I’m sorry, would you like me to take advantage of you?” I asked, “No, but I mean come on, your surrounded by girls, you should be enjoying it more.” It was funny; the one time I decide to restrain myself and not be whore-ish a beautiful German tells me off for it. Well I took that as a sign that I could just be myself so I kissed her.

Sleeping in a ghost house

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

The next day it was more driving, on more long roads, reaching one point Lachie told us was “The edge of the world.” Which was really just a lower portion of plain, however its positioning and the way that it seemed to stretch on for ever did make it seem quite edge of the world like, I think perhaps the lack of anything on the plain might have contributed that effect too. Then off to Eucla, a charming little telegraph town, we stopped by a sand bank, with a chair on it, moving past this welcome we came to the town, one long departed building. The place had been buried by sandstorms a while ago and simply left to fall apart.

The south coastline happened to run quite close to the road, so a viewing was natural, the first being our lunch stop. It was obvious that here was where the plateau ended, in a big long line the ground fell away in an incline that reached down to rather harsh looking beaches, perhaps that was just the weather though. The second time was rather more dramatic, forget what Lachie said earlier about the edge of the world, this would also be the edge of the plateau but the difference being instead of a slope the ground just was and then wasn’t, here we were standing on massive cliffs that went as far as you could see in both directions, a sheer drop with the waves angrily pummelling the base of the cliffs we were on and the wind threatening to knock you over, quite humbling really, and the only thing between us and Antarctica was water, and maybe some sharks.

That night was perhaps our most interesting camping wise, we went off the road and up to what used to be the road from west to east. Just off this ancient road there was an old petrol station, which had been abandoned when the road got moved and it went out of business, and this was where we stayed. It was complete with a ghost house, barn, shed, outside ‘dunny’ and even its own car graveyard. Now you might be wondering what the hell a car graveyard is, perhaps that’s not even the right name for it as no cars were buried but that’s what I’m calling it, it being about a hundred rusted out, broken, wrecked cars. The whole place was utterly fascinating, and is now an infamous little shelter for passers by who know of it.

I wandered about the place with Nic, taking photos of cars, lots and lots of photos of cars, we found a funnel web hole, Lachie on his way back from searching for something he never found and eventually when we wandered up to the old barn we found Linda (a friend of Helen who was naturally lovely) sitting in the doorway looking quite creepy, it turned out she had liked the place because it was away from the main goings on of everyone else and felt very peaceful, to me it was just creepy, things left about as if people expected to come back.

Straight roads

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

The next morning we were up for a hike, the weather had cooled slightly so it was a pleasant enough walk up one of the nearby hills that had a rock at the top, this rock I attempted to climb, then noticing the spider webs 2 inches from my nose I attempted to flee. Angelica and Nic had kindly waited for me and we strolled down to the lookout to find the others already swimming. The view was spectacular naturally, the usual one white sand, blue/green crystal clear water, blah blah you know it already.

On the road again, this time a really long road. Really long and really straight, at one point it was just hills but no turns, so you’d crest one hill to see another 20 in the distance and just wonder how long it could go on for, then we came across the 90 mile straight. When we hit this particularly long bit of very boring road surrounded by nothing there was a little tree people had used to put random objects on, littering, however it was amusing and Lachie gained a huge purple hat from it. Just before this boring road there was something even more random than a purple hat in a tree, a NASA mistake. This NASA mistake consisted of a satellite that NASA, the clever buggers, attempted to crash over the ocean, and missed, by quite a large margin as anyone who knows anything about Australia’s size can tell you. Part of it had landed right next to the Nullarbor, in fact several large chunks of metal had landed in this little town that was little more than a name on a map, I think the satellite pieces outnumbered the inhabitants.

After a lot of driving we reached our next stop at our shelter for the night, which was just that, a big metal roof. No walls. We set up tents on the rock solid ground and hammered like crazy to get our pegs in before the tents blew away, which was difficult in the circumstances. This was the place where the good weather got away, Australia’s weather in the south starts in the west and then takes the same road we did along to the east, we had been following the hot stuff since Perth but now it had got away and the clouds that were following it had caught up with us. We heard the rain, however the Nullarbor has this remarkable aspect, as soon as water touches the ground it acts like a sieve, and the water literally falls straight through as if there was no ground there, and this is why there are no trees in the Nullarbor Plain. I got up for a pee after hearing the rain stop and it was dry, there was no water on the ground, weird I thought, maybe it hadn’t rained after all, but I changed my mind upon witnessing my pee disappear into the ground as well.

Esperance to Lucky Bay

Sunday, January 31, 2010

Eventually sleep came, after much stargazing in which I saw 9 shooting stars, (I still haven’t used up all of those wishes) and I awoke to the sun heating up the tent. Breakfast, great, I am never one who likes to join in with the general public in a lot of things, I disagree with such things as eating cereal in the morning. So naturally it was cereal in the morning, of course it was that’s normal right. I opted for some toast, cooked upon some weird little grill that you put over a flame to heat the toast. I figured out how it worked eventually, and I have used one before, but was too overheated to even question, being in Litchfield.

We said goodbye to Mary and off we went! To Esperance, we were hot whilst driving, but when we got off the bus… I was glad I visited the northern parts of Australia early, as there is no way I would be coping up there when it was too hot for me on the south coast. Most people seemed happy about the ‘good weather’ but I tend to feel that if it burns you, its too hot. It burned, a fair bit, I wasn’t really sunburned as my skin is Afghan, still doesn’t mean I could breathe though. As soon as the bus doors opened everyone spilled out and fled in different directions, suddenly I was alone “What time are we supposed to be where? Oh…” right then, time to do something. I wandered around, got some snacks from the supermarket, some film for my underwater camera and then walked along the beach, using the trees for shade but still sweating like a much larger man. I did find them, right down the other end, where were supposed to meet Lachie they told me, ‘oh good then at least I can find my way accidentally.’

There was a Sea lion. Just lying there. I walked straight past it and didn’t even notice, then after I had my swim in the gloriously cold water the girls asked me if I had seen it “What, there’s a Sea lion, here? Where?” “Over there.” and so there was, lounging around under the jetty, a big blob of a Sea beast chilling in the shade. It looked pretty damn content and I felt a tiny bit guilty about disturbing its sleep when I started taking pictures, but hey when else was I going to get to pose with a Sea lion. “Don’t go near it!” Dammit Lachie could you not have waited 5 seconds to say that! So maybe I wasn’t going to pose with a Sea lion.

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We left there and headed to another beach, this one had a billion flies, sorry that’s an understatement. But then at least it wasn’t worse than Uluru, which if anyone cares to visit, take a compact fly killer with you, they may be illegal in Oz but its worth the risk! The beach itself was very pretty, Lucky Bay it was named, after someone who got lucky there, no not in that way, he was fleeing a storm at sea, and was happy to see white sand with blue/green water. Arguably the sand was kind of weird and pretty disgusting, all mushy and soggy in places but beautiful from afar, at least it made good pictures. The water was freezing, I think it must be due to having no landmass between Australia’s south coast and Antarctica as Esperance had cold water too, and so it seems does everywhere along the south coast. But it did the job and refreshment was mine!

Nullarbor!

Thursday, January 28, 2010

So I pretty much got off one bus and onto another. Our tour with the Nullarbor Traveller started early, meaning I had to wake up early, grr, something I have never been a fan of so I was still half asleep when we began our epic journey to Adelaide. When I had finally shuffled my stuff around and got myself onboard we headed off and soon after one of the girls announced that I was pretty lucky being the only guy on board among 9 girls, I must have been tired as I hadn’t noticed. I wasn’t the only guy though; our tour guide Lachie made us 2 vs. 9.

We spent much of the first day driving, stopping at York to eat a quick breakfast then heading to the Wave Rock! Now the Wave Rock is really just another rock, however it just so happens that it formed in the shape of a giant wave. We took a wander in the blistering heat that we had been following east and climbed as far up the wave as we could manage to take pictures. One among our number, Angelica vanished and we wandered over to the bus wondering whether she would make it or perhaps perish in the heat, then thoughts of food and shade took over. She did turn up in the end.
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That first night was spent at Mary’s house, a charming lady who cooked us a delightful, meal of pasta with veg. Then off to bed, or rather to the tents, I shared with Nicola, soon to become my new best friend, as my tent had a few issues. She didn’t seem to mind, in fact she recently told me she was really happy I moved in, as she wasn’t keen on being left alone with any spiders, I’m sure the tiger snakes that came out at night weren’t much of a confidence booster either. We talked a fair bit through the night, everyone obviously being able to hear our conversation as we were in tents, and Nic didn’t get the best first impression of me when I told her about my dads family history, which in a nutshell is: banditry, smuggling, a lot of siblings, murders, not so many siblings and then lots of mental illness. Please do note, that is a rough outline of a very complicated family history, not my dad’s personal history, which is very different and only includes the many siblings.

Check out the itinerary Samson followed at Nullarbor Traveller

Cold cold morning

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Upon waking the cottage was bloody freezing, the last thing I wanted to do was get out from under the lovely warm covers, with the lovely warm Nadege and venture out into the unthawed early world. But I forced myself to move, shivering as I searched for clothes and cringing when I put the icy garments on. I crammed all my stuff into my bags and got ready to leave while Nadege got dressed herself and put the kettle on, I told her she didn’t have to get up for me and she should stay in bed but she told me “No it’s ok, I’m not, I want to see Helen.” All ready, we sat outside with a cup of tea in the fresh morning air while waiting for the bus to turn up and drag me away from the scene. Which it promptly did. Helen and Nadege hugged each other and spoke for a second whilst I dumped my stuff in the trailer and then I had my turn for a goodbye, which I never like doing. We hugged, kissed, said goodbye, and I got on the bus feeling a little embarrassed as they clearly all had a good view and I’m not a fan of having spectators during intimate moments. I don’t mind writing about it.

The last day of the Southern Curl tour was another one full of fun, we went to the valley of the giants, where they have yet more Karri trees to walk among and a skinny little walkway up at the top of the trees which swayed with each step so that it felt like being on a ship, not that many ships ever end up that high above ground. There were trees big enough to stand inside, some big enough for several of us to stand inside, ones you could walk straight through a hole in one side and out a hole in the other, tall trees, skinny trees, fat trees or just plain burnt, there was a lot.

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After the trees it was time to hit the beach, we went to one that apparently the tour hadn’t been before, just to check it out. That’s another thing about the Easy Rider, they are perfectly happy to change around the schedule and find a different beach or winery or whatever, unless of course it’s day 1 and you’re a grumpy old man that looks like Benny Hill with a recently broken back and don’t like walking or swimming or caves or anything else that people come to Australia for, and the rest of the group does like it. That’s just being difficult. So anyway we hit the beach and apart from the stupendous amount of flies it was great, nice view and lovely cool water. We spent a while mucking around with the Christmas hat, ate lunch and then took a swim before dribbling back to the bus everyone according to their own schedule.

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After that was another tasting at a toffee and ice cream shop, this place had a hay bale with half a cyclist sticking out, sheer genius if you ask me. John the Irishman in our group, who was also extremely loud, always drunk, very sunburned, tubby and talked far too much and in far too much detail about his sexual encounters with what I assume to be chickens but he called ‘birds’; proceeded to pig out and clear out the tasting trays. Amusingly they had a picture of a pig with a red cross through it above the trays, which prompted the statement “Clearly they don’t want you here John" repeatedly by several people. Then we played ring toss outside, a game which I usually suck at yet somehow managed a 3 in a row at which point I declared myself Champion.

The last stop was at another little bit of coast, with more flies, this time of the stinging variety. But it was beautiful so it made up for it, and there were rocks to climb! Climb we did, Burt and myself swimming round one of the rocks and climbing to the top, we weren’t sure whether it was deep enough so I jumped in to test it out, then we jumped off repeatedly, and even managed to convince Fiona and a couple others to jump off too. The end of that day was spent in Albany, where I headed to the YHA there run by a very sweet couple, I don’t actually know if they were a couple but both were very sweet all the same. Here I met Clair again, it really is a small world, and what were the odds of me moving backpackers and finding her there!

Nadege and a giant tree

Sunday, January 24, 2010

The goodbye as usual came with plenty of hugs and the usual feeling of pessimism at leaving behind a new friend or 5, and excitement at the new journey about to unfold. Speaking of which Nadege had given her no to Helen to pass on to me, which made me kinda happy, she had previously not given me her no saying we should just leave it and let fate decide, it seems fate had decided, only I wouldn’t get to see her for long, she had rented a cottage for a few days and I would be sleeping in the same town but only for one night as I had to rush back to Perth for another tour I had booked. Still at least I would get to see her again, which is more than expected when backpacking.

The plan was to head to Pemberton, and take in a few sights along the way. Again we went through the Karri forest and I got another look at the giants, then we headed south and along the coast to view a lighthouse just off the far south west corner. Then it was a lot of driving. I sort of conked out for a bit, got comfy, typed, read, showed off pictures etc. as we cruised along to visit Pemberton and the great Gloucester Tree. The tree is ancient just like the forest surrounding it, and it’s a 60 metre climb which when you reach the top means you can see the forest for miles around, and that just so happens to be the purpose of the platform at the top, used a fireman’s lookout to spot forest fires in the distance.

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After hopping up the tree and hopping back down, we went back to the little town and off to the backpackers. We all piled out of the bus and into the office, which I had presumed was the same backpackers that Nadege was staying at, no cigar, the had never heard of her, then it transpired there was another backpackers that also dealt in cottages and it was in the town we just came from. Fiona our guide dropped me back at the other hostel and I found the cottage after much confusion and finally was let in by Nadege. I think what I was feeling was nervous, having only met the girl once before and about to spend the night at her cottage, it was at least a new experience. I said as much to her and she confessed to feeling a little the same, I then announced I was hungry, as I often do when I can think of nothing else to say, in any case it is almost always true.

Nadege didn’t have a lot of food but there was enough to make some pasta sauce, if only we had the pasta. Time for a pasta hunt, surely even in a town this small we can find some pasta, the shops were shut, and there were no small shops. Right then, no pasta, hmm. On the way we talked, about her life and mine, about our plans for the near future and the subject of dance came up, as did past men, for her not me. On the way back to the cottage we went past a café, at which point I figured they gotta have some pasta, it may be an odd request, excuse me can I have some raw pasta, but they gotta have it. Surely! So we went in and asked, “excuse me, do you have any raw pasta?” after an odd look and a moments contemplation, who knows what was going through her head at the time, I’m assuming something to do with madness, she went out the back and got us a packet of raw pasta, success! She charged us exactly what it cost her, wouldn’t hear of it being any more and sent us on our way with loads of pasta and an amused smile.

I learned a fair amount about Nadege, and I guess now I should include a rough description: she is blond, a head shorter than me, wears glasses, was a nurse back home and was taking time off to explore some of the more remote parts of Australia, I love her French accent, and she kissed like a demon, a very sexy demon that is. I wont give you all the details of the evening, my sisters are reading this blog, and so is my mother, however I will say that I cooked up some lovely pasta whilst Nadege looked through my photos, and then we went to bed and watched a film about Monsters and Aliens having a random war, with Reese Witherspoon playing the lead monster.

Margaret River

I wasn’t the only guy who didn’t get much sleep, and that was mostly due to the snorer so I’m pretty blessed having at least a nice reason for being tired. We did a quick pack then headed away to a chocolate factory and a cheese tasting before getting into the town of Margaret River again, this time I got off the bus, along with Helen, Melissa and Burt, leaving only 3 people on the bus. We all stayed until the next Easy Rider tour went by which was in 4 days time, Burt just wanted to surf and avoid the snoring, Helen wanted to check out the town, and Melissa I don’t know, but we was all there, except for me who went just out of town to stay at The Lodge YHA.

My hostel was full of Japanese people, loads of them. When I arrived I met so many I got very confused and forget their names. There was also a mixture of others from France, Italy, Ireland, generally all over the place. I met 2 lovely French girls that remembered me from Perth who I chatted with whilst at the hostel who complimented my cooking, J they were looking for work, which seems to be big in the Margaret River and were staying around there hoping to find something or waiting for the next thing to arrive.

The first day I didn’t do much, went back into town and met up with the others, found out their plans etc. then I think I might have played chess with Helen, at which I lost terribly. The next day I went for a walk down the river with Helen (she’s nice to hang out with), and I talked, a lot. I think I was pretty annoying, although Helen was nice and didn’t hit me over the head with a branch to shut me up. I nattered away like crazy about all my problems and everything else I could think of, not quite sure why today had me feeling so talkative, or perhaps whiney depending on how you look at it, but either way I just couldn’t stop. Helens response was to kindly point out that I was being a bit of a nob, and to tell me to stop worrying and just let it work itself out. I stopped talking for perhaps 3 seconds before carrying on with my tirade. Eventually I shut up, which I’m sure brought Helen much relief, and I went back home to chill out.

At one point when I had no food, Yu (numerous name jokes were made) a Japanese surfer offered to cook for me, he was cooking a curry for a few people and included me in the delectable meal, then afterwards our Italian friend got out the profiteroles! This encounter led me to be involved with a little trip that headed down south. A group of awesome people and myself got in a 4x4 and drove. We headed south and meandered a little, taking smaller more scenic roads, this taking us through the Karri forests, which once entered confused the senses somewhat, I literally thought we had entered a giants world. We had to stop and get out just to wonder at the tall trees, this also led to a stinging fly getting in the car, which resulted in much flailing and attempted fly murder. Moving further into the mighty forest we took a dirt track and went down even more surreal tracks like tunnels through the trees, one of them leading to an off road event, true off-roading.

The road wasn’t even worth calling a road, I’m sure most cliffs are more stable to drive across however the car was a really good one, and it went straight over the boulders with ease, the track leading us to a sandy path. We got out and not expecting much trudged down the path to find the most beautiful scene I have seen in a while, and considering where I’ve been recently that’s saying something. The day was cloudy, and quite dark, yet the water was a striking blue green against the white sand, with not another person in sight and we ran down the little path taking photos and sliding down the sand to reach the beach. If it had been a hotter day we might have swum but as it was we were all wearing 2 layers against the cold and didn’t much fancy hypothermia. However it wasn’t necessary as we were content just to be there and see it. If asked to pinpoint exactly what made it so beautiful I couldn’t say, but we all agreed it was breathtaking and an amazing spot.

IMG_6065We all felt pretty elevated after this and next we headed just down the coast to Hamelin Bay, where there was other people. And apparently stingrays, which we didn’t really expect to see, so were naturally pretty surprised when we noticed a metre wide stingray floating past 2 feet from us. At this astounding sight we all got rather excited and began splashing about looking for more of them, we even touched them, being incredibly docile, to the point where I wouldn’t be surprised if someone had put something in the water. We could actually just stand there as they drifted over to us and glided over our feet. Then a quick climb up the rocks to take in the sun as it went down before heading back to the car and with a feeling like floating we drove back home.

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Easy Rider Southern Curl

Friday, January 22, 2010

I hopped on the Easy rider bus to see whom, but Helen looking at me with an amused grin. Hi Helen, don’t mind me I’m just stalking you. We set off and headed south, stopping almost immediately when one of our group got off to stay at the first town we reached. The Easy Rider being a JOJO (Jump on Jump off) tour this was normal but unexpected so soon after getting on the bus.

It wasn’t all fun and games, I had a little argument with one of the other passengers almost right away. I was talking to Helen and we got onto the subject of Heath Care which I knew little about in other countries, however I did know that in England it is abysmal, our government preferring to spend its money on paying an army to kill civilians in other countries than on proper pay for doctors that are overworked and without the needed resources. Anyhow once I announced my views to Helen the man seated in front of me turned around and began to shout, at first I was simply surprised, having no idea why someone was shouting at me. Then when I figured out what he was saying “you have no idea, your not doing anything about it, I’ve been through the war etc.” I slightly switched off realizing he was just a bitter old man wanting to blame someone else’s inactivity for all the suffering he went through. It was almost too much when he said, “have you ever killed anyone?” Strangely no, I haven’t killed anyone yet, its on my to do before 30 list but just haven’t got round to it yet. Perhaps when I do I’ll understand better how the health system and politics work?

After stopping for breakfast we stopped at Busselton to see the famous jetty, which has half fallen down so you cant actually do the mile walk to the end but is still quite impressive, we walked up and then back down and just happened to be standing in the right place to watch the Iron Man competition as it ran by. They looked shattered which doesn’t really surprise me as they had just done something very stupid yet extremely impressive.

Back on the bus and this time off to a beautiful little beach surrounded by trees and a large rock in the distance, we ate lunch, which in my case was a yummy gourmet sandwich and then on with the boardies for a swim, that was when I realized there was a big rock and picture opportunities. I didn’t quite get that far, I started running down the path and noticed that not only was it scorching hot in the sun, but it was also mostly sharp rocks. So slowly burned and quickly hurt. Great I thought and pressed on thinking ‘it cant be that far’ always an obvious sign that it will be a long way when you think that.

Eventually I decided I couldn’t walk back, it being too torturous for my precious feet, the only problem was I had a camera with me, which wouldn’t take too kindly to me swimming. The problem was solved swiftly by Helen appearing on the track headed back towards the picnic area, ‘take this’ I said handing the camera to her as I continued my odd hopping form of travel past and on to the rock. I made it but I didn’t have my camera. So it was time to swim back, having wasted my time getting here I resolved to at least enjoy the swim. Into the cold water I waded and my god it was gorgeous, the day was ridiculously hot and finally I was cooling down in clear, cold, wonderful water! The swim took a little while but eventually I made it back to the group, dripping and feeling rather exhilarated.

IMG_5868Our next stop was the Ngilgi caves where we stumbled about in the dark and at one point I got to crawl through an odd little claustrophobia-inducing tunnel. It was filled with odd sediments that shined funny colours when you put a torch to them, stalactites and stalagmites which I still get confused about, and some little caves inside the bigger caves, apparently some Englishman spent 3 days exploring them soon after the British occupation. Now you can do some of the tougher explorations in a day, all of it spent crawling.

Probably the most scenic part of the day was the next place we visited, a natural rock formation that created a channel for the tide. It was awesome to see the waves come in and I was quite tempted to jump in the water, only the roughness of it and my tendency to enjoy danger a little too much stopped me. We clambered over some boulders to reach an ideal viewing spot, then sat down and watched the waves roll in. After this we went to a winery.

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Our final stop was the end of the Margaret river, divided from the sea by about 2 meters of sand. Where a dog was having fun running headlong into waves, it seemed that he was trying to rescue surfers or something, and some dude was doing pushups on the rocks, then switching to a different rock and repeating. The weird things you see.

After our fun packed and entertaining day we headed back up to dunsborough for the night, our backpackers was the YHA there, right on the beach which being a bay had almost completely still water, wrong direction for sunset though. It turned out they were doing a Barbie, of which I believe I had 2 steaks, 2 sausages and 2 burgers amongst a bit of potato salad and pasta etc. so I certainly got my moneys worth, well I say my money, I had to borrow it off Helen so really it was her money. Either way the food was great and I chatted away to my new group and met a friend of Helen, a Swiss lady like Helen, called Nadege, although she spoke French and Helen spoke German, or rather the Swiss variety.

Everyone went to bed but I just wasn’t feeling tired, and I really felt like a cup of fruity tea, naturally I didn’t have any, but I saw Nadege was up as well so figured I’d go talk to her. She then got up and made tea, fruit tea, I love moments like that; when you want something and you randomly get it in a way you weren’t expecting. We sat on the sofa and talked away about jobs and such like, and eventually started kissing. In a backpackers you don’t get much privacy, there was a football game going on in the next room with ‘intellectual men’ yelling at the TV. We stayed there for long enough to decide that we weren’t going to get any privacy, and then I went to bed. I lay down and decided I wasn’t tired. I got up again. Nadege was outside listening to her iPod, so I snuck up sat behind her and hugged her, figured it was nicer than shouting boo. We sat there for a while, listening to her music, and then we got up and danced. I attempted to remember and teach her how to tango, not very successful but it was fun all the same, and I bet we looked very odd to whoever was watching that couldn’t hear the music. Eventually I did go to bed and I tried to fall asleep despite the old guy who I argued with who was still snoring at a rather antisocial level, really you should get your own room if your going to stop other people from sleeping.

Back to base

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Starting the journey back to Perth at 3 was tough, and what was worse I didn’t manage to sleep until over half way there. I was slightly annoyed that I couldn’t go any higher seeing as I would be missing lots but then you never get to see everything eh. So off I headed on a painful journey, which was made much nicer by the fact that Clair and Helen got on when we went past Kalbarri.

Back in Perth I made a new friend, apart from a French girl who worked there and a Dutch girl I talked with once at lunch, I had spoken little with the other inhabitants in Perth City YHA. Coming back I met Natacha, a pretty French lady (I hope you have noticed a pattern arising here, how most of the people I meet seem to be pretty women… I only notice when I write about it after, seems normal to me at the time.) who I hung out with during my brief rest back in Perth before the next leg. We ate together, watched films together, went for walks together and got lost and pissed off in the heat together. Whilst searching for wildlife on Heirrison Island we walked left thinking it looked more promising. Well we kept looking on the left side for quite a while, but guess what, we found only ducks. It was hot so our search was slightly more difficult than one might imagine, and eventually I did figure out that we simply on the wrong side of the island.

Whilst we wandered over the over side I discovered that Natacha was ticklish, and she discovered my age, we both asked each other and then both said guess. So she guessed all the usuals, 24? No. 25? No. 26?! “I’m 20.” “No… your not 20, you cant be!” Why exactly I couldn’t be 20 I wasn’t quite sure, then of course it was my turn, 26? No. 27? No. 28? No. “alright then 38?” “NO!” complete with slap. “I’m 29.” Then I noticed a gate, looking remarkably like that of an enclosure for animals maybe. “That’s it!” I announced and steered us towards it. Inside we did indeed meet some kangaroos, and cleverly I had not taken a camera with me, otherwise I would upload some amusing pictures of me shaking hands with a Roo.